Italy is not a country of early risers. Whilst in New York, a 5 a.m. wake-up is quite normal, in Milano, the entire city is still under the covers until at least 7. By 7, you might begin to hear sheets rustling. You might see a few cars on the road. By 7:30, cafes open. I am always one of the first ones there. The sound of the espresso cup on its saucer is cacophonous, in an otherwise silent cafe. It’s one of my favourite sounds.

For a cafe, my usual place is Marchesi in Montenapoleone. There are others, such as in the Galleria or over in Sant’Ambrogio, but everyone has their ‘homebase’ where they feel most comfortable and know the staff. Over the years, every time I go, even if it’s been months and months since my last brioche vuota, I still see familiar faces and receive hugs and big smiles. It’s sort of like Cheers; you want to go where everyone knows your name. Marchesi is a literal stage set of pastel colours, exquisite cakes, the most mouth-watering pastries, and magazine worthy decor. Every aspect of the cafe is on point for a photograph. By 9 a.m. it is positively bustling, and everyone is freshly coiffed, in shoes to die for, and outfits that make you immediately feel underdressed for just another day in Milano.

Milano during the week is a perfect place to be busy. The Italian culture is one of relationships; this is especially important in one’s professional life. Meetings should be done in person. If you are just visiting, do your homework on interesting people who live here. Write to them if you’re curious to meet them. Tell them you’d love to learn more about what they do. If you have a good enough reason why, even if it’s, “one day, I might like to do something similar,” I guarantee you they will be generous with their time. The best way to understand and experience a culture is to spend time with its people.

If you need a good meeting spot, I recommend the garden and/or garden cafe at Villa Necchi Campiglio. This also will set you up for a divine stroll in one of the city’s most elegant neighbourhoods: in and around Via Mozart. It doesn’t get more Milanese than this.Walk slowly and take note of the sublime entrances—some ornate, some modern, some art deco. It is a feast for the beauty-lover’s eyes.

For a June lunch, I would suggest sitting in the garden at Bulgari, which is a real, fabulous treat. This is one of my favourite menus and chefs in the city. The menu is utter perfection and each plate comes out so beautifully you are hesitant to touch it. Once you dine at Bulgari, it’s really quite hard to go elsewhere. I sound supremely spoiled saying this, but it’s true. It’s also one of the only gardens in the city where you can dine al fresco surrounded by greenery. If you don’t make it for lunch, don’t fret— it is one of my top suggestions for aperitivo.
Other lovely lunch spots for a June lunch include Erba Brusca on the other side of the city. This is charm personified. Think hyper local cuisine, creative flair, colourful decor, and record players. There is even a bocce court in the back. The place feels like someone’s home, rather than a restaurant, and exudes a warmth that will make the trip to this farther afield neighbourhood worth it.

If you are crunched for time and want a quick, healthy bite as you wander the streets of Brera, head to Centro Botanico, the little organic market. It is actually one of the best-kept lunch spots. I used to go with one of my girlfriends all the time. We’d have delicious vegetables and some sort of rice or tofu or plant-based protein and catch up on job talk and men gossip surrounded by low-key but stylish artsy Brera people. I love it dearly.

Milano is known for its ‘secret’ courtyards.

One of many spectacularly elegant Milanese entrances.

For shopping and unusual finds, the city is your oyster. There is no wrong answer to this. Brera has many clothing and home furnishing shops as well as a few artistry stores, as the famous art school is located here. I like Via Solferino. Sant’Ambrogio also has quite a dense shopping area, and a meander around the little streets that shoot off Via S. Maurilio is lovely as well. Laboratorio Paravicini is an extraordinary star on the map. Here you can see handmade ceramics being painted one by one. It’s not allowed to step into the studio here but if you intend to shop and are extra gracious, you might just get a peek.

My perfect June day in Milano